When the word gets out that there's more to Hungary than a dying English patient and paprika, this country of rolling hills and lush river valleys will become a popular stop for travelers thirsting for a little romance with their history.

I went to Hungary with visions of dark-eyed women swaying to gypsy melodies. Though I never did swoon over a mysterious maiden, I did see the full moon reflected in the waters of the Danube and enjoyed a classical concert in the outdoor setting of a medieval castle. I was not disappointed.

The heart of Hungary is its capital, Budapest. The Danube flows through it, dividing the city into two sections, Buda and Pest.
My tour began at Varosliget, the city's largest park, located in the center of Pest. As I rose up from the subway onto Andrassy Boulevard, the Millennium Monument sprang into view like an ambush of pillars and bronze. Commemorating the conquest of present-day Hungary by the Magyars in 896, it's an impressive introduction to those heroic warriors.

The square celebrates both the Christian and pre-Christian traditions. In the center stands a marble pillar over 30 meters high capped with a statue of the archangel Gabriel. According to legend, Gabriel appeared to Pope Sylvester II in a dream telling him to recognize Hungary's King Istvan I as a Christian king.

Around the base of the pillar are the fierce-looking leaders of the seven Magyar tribes. Modern Hungarians still call themselves Magyars and trace their origins to a nomadic tribe that originated near the Ural Mountains. The tribe split while migrating west, one part eventually reaching Finland, while another invaded and conquered what is now Hungary.

Budapest has its own distinctive folk styles and unique blend of Eastern and Western cultures that set it apart from mother European destinations. A stroll down Andrassy Boulevard, past the classical lines of the Opera House or the Baroque interior of Lukacs coffee house, is like stepping though a jewel box of architectural styles.

Situated at the crossroads of Eastern and Western Europe, Budapest has endured many invasions and has been influenced by various traditions. Its stormy history is a microcosm of European cultural history. In the last 500 years, Budapest has been occupied by three of the world's great empires- Ottoman, Austrian and Soviet- and each of them has left its mark on Budapest. Hungary, like Japan, has absorbed other traditions into its own.

Once two separate cities, Buda and Pest were united in 1872. Pest has since become the financial center, while Buda has retained its historical charm. The contrast is striking as you pass the lions guarding the ends of the Szechenyi Bridge and cross over the Danube. Pest is modern and flat, crammed with a smorgasbord of architectural styles. Buda luxuriously sprawls across wooded hills.

   

To the left, atop the Varhegy (Castle Hill) is the Royal Palace, home to the Historical Museum and National Gallery. The original medieval castle was rebuilt as an 18th century palace by Empress Maria Theresa; badly damaged in World War II, it was rebuilt in the 1970's. To the right, behind the fairytale facade of the Halaszbastya (Fisherman's Bastion), is the spire of Matyas Templom (Matthias Church). Between them, the Varhegy district is one of the oldest and best preserved parts of Budapest.

 

Rather than opt for the easy funicular (cable car) ride up the hill to the Royal Palace, start at the north end and follow the winding hills up into Varhegy. From here you can wander down cobblestone streets until you arrive at Matthias Church, named after the king who ruled in the 15th century, at the height of Hungary's power.

Standing at the Baroque Column in front of the church, you are now in Holy Trinity Square, where most of Hungary's defeats and victories have been lamented or celebrated. An earlier version of the church is thought to have been built here in 1015 by King Istvan I. It was razed and rebuilt, attaining its current Gothic glory in the 14th century. Since then, it has witnessed the crowning of several kings, and was turned into a mosque by the Turks in the 16th century.

Behind the church is the Halaszbastya, built 100 years ago for the millennium celebrations. Designed for decoration only, the white fortress wall gets its name from the fishermen's guild who defended Varhegy during the Middle Ages. The seven turrets represent the seven Magyar tribes that settled in Hungary. For a small fee you can climb the stairs for a spectacular view overlooking the Danube and Pest.

The titanic bulk of Orszaghaz (Parliament Building) dominates the other side of the river. Until communist rule a red star was perched on top, but it was taken down when the "barbed wire curtain" fell. Hungary, always restless under foreign occupiers, accelerated the dissolution of the Warsaw Pact and gained its own independence in 1990.

Gellert Hill, to the south of Varhegy, rises 140 meters above Budapest. Gellert was an Italian bishop who helped spread Christianity in Hungary over 1000 years ago. Eventually, some pagans grew impatient with the missionary and rolled him down the hill in a spiked barrel. In the middle of the hill stands his monument: a large statue of the bishop holding a cross over the city.

The top of the Gellert Hill boasts the Soviet Union's attempt at creating a Statue of Liberty in its own ideological conceit. Visible from anywhere in the city, the Liberation Monument was erected in 1947 to commemorate the overthrow of the Nazis. Directly behind this statue is the Citadella, a fortification the Hapsburgs built with forced labour after stifling the 1848-49 War of Independence. Once Hungary gained control of it at the turn of the century they discovered the cost of demolition was too high, so they chose to symbolically knock one wall down. Today it is a desolate war horse, interesting for the shell scars and panoramic view of Budapest.

The Turks's 150 year occupation during the 16th and 17th centuries left thermal baths scattered throughout Budapest. At the Turkish-domed Kiraly baths, built in 1570, you can enjoy an authentic Ottoman-style onsen, or for a more modern experience, visit the popular Gellert Hotel.

Budapest glories in its musical heritage. The home of the folk-inspired compositions of Bela Bartok and the "Hungarian Rhapsodie" of Franz Liszt, it provides plenty of opportunities to hear internationally known artists in a variety of settings. Then opulent Opera House has regular performances of ballet, opera and classical music for very reasonable prices, and during the spring and summer months and medieval setting of the Vajdahunyad Castle hosts outdoor concerts.

With Yasir inside the Opera House
at Prokofiev's "Romeo & Juliet"

If you're planning a trip to Europe, try the road less traveled and discover Budapest, the heart of Hungary.

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